Vintage Nettie Rosenstein Pavé Rhinestone Set

                                                                                                                                       Every once in a while I run into costume jewelry so big and sparkly that I turn into that little girl happily watching Mom get dressed up to go out - like this stunning circa 1950s set of brooch and earrings by famed mid-20th century fashion designer Nettie Rosenstein (1890-1980). The large three-dimensional flower is covered in glittering pavé-set rhinestones set in silver-tone metal, the brooch is a little over 2" across, the petal shape clip earrings measure approx. 1⅛" x ¾".  Typical of Rosenstein's designs, it's beautifully constructed and well-designed, with the tiny crystals still bright decades later.

Born is Austria, Nettie Rosencrans emigrated to the U.S. as a child, later marrying ladies underwear manufacturer Saul Rosenstein in 1913.  Soon after her marriage, she started designing and making dresses in her home, by the 1920s she was very successful, her designs (including the classic "little black dress") were highly regarded and very popular despite being in the upper price range of ready-to-wear.  Here's Nettie's biography in the Jewish Women's Archive.

A Morning Glory Collects page shows a wonderful selection of the imaginative Rosenstein jewelry.

Art Nouveau Dragonfly Watch Pin

Well here's the first post on my new blog, thought long and hard about which piece should launch this site, finally deciding that the dragonfly pin used as my avatar would be the right choice.  Bought at an antique show in early '80s, this lovely piece from the first few years of the 20th century, made by Newark, NJ manufacturer Riker Brothers, launched my dragonfly collection.  Crafted of 14 karat gold, it's highlighted with enamel wings in soft shades of blue and green, the eyes are demantoid garnets, a diamond and ruby on the body.  It's a watch pin, with a hook on the back to hold a small ladies pocket watch, though it can also be worn quite nicely by itself.

A version of this pin in different colors is shown on page 109 in The Glitter & The Gold, Fashioning America's Jewelry, edited by Ulysses Dietz, a great book showing all types of jewelry and related items from the late 19th and early 20th century, by numerous Newark, New Jersey jewelry manufacturers, with some interesting insight into the jewelry-making industry.  The book can be found at the Newark Museum Shop as well as Amazon and other booksellers.

William Riker (1822-98) opened his first shop in 1846 as Riker & Tay, operating under several incarnations until he and son Cortlandt left the firm in 1892, leaving brothers William Jr. and Joseph to rename the company as Riker Bros.

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